Report : Africa, a new global leader in fashion

By the editorial team

Fashion is truly taking off in Africa, and this report shows that it can be further developed. To achieve this, designers, professionals, and the entire production and distribution infrastructure need more support from policymakers. The potential is enormous, not only for the economy but also for youth inclusion, women’s empowerment, and for African culture to resonate globally.

4 challenges to realize the potential of the fashion sector in Africa

Titled « The Fashion Sector in Africa: Trends, Challenges, and Growth Opportunities, » UNESCO’s analysis shows that the continent has all the assets to become one of the next global leaders in fashion. It is a major producer of raw materials – 37 out of 54 countries produce cotton – an exporter of textiles worth $15.5 billion annually, and an importer of textiles, clothing, and footwear worth $23.1 billion annually.

A growing consumption trend on the continent is that of Made-in-Africa fashion, particularly among the youth – under 25s represent 50% of the continent’s total population – and among the emerging middle class – which already represents over 35% of the population – opening new consumer markets. Africa is also experiencing rapid growth in the digital sector, facilitating intra-African trade and the emergence of young talents.

With 32 Fashion Weeks organized each year, Africa is also rich in talent in haute couture, craftsmanship, and ready-to-wear. A 42% increase in demand for African haute couture is expected over the next 10 years.

In its report, UNESCO highlights 4 challenges that governments and decision-makers must address if they want to realize the potential of the fashion sector in Africa:

1. Strengthen legal protections for designers and professionals, in terms of intellectual property rights, levels of remuneration, working conditions, and the ability to organize in professional unions and social rights. In this regard, UNESCO is already helping 23 African countries improve the status of artists through legislation and regulation.
2. Invest in small and medium-sized enterprises, which currently represent 90% of fashion sector businesses in Africa. Spanning the entire continent, they are guardians of cultural diversity and expression practices. Generating local jobs, they are also a powerful lever to give young people eager to integrate into the sector a chance.
3. Establish environmental standards. Although the fashion industry remains one of the most polluting, Africa can further utilize local materials, innovate around sustainable textiles, and raise awareness about sustainable consumption patterns. Organic cotton fiber production in Africa has already increased by 90% between 2019 and 2020, now representing 7.3% of global production. The second-hand clothing market is one of the most dynamic in the world – accounting for a third of global imports – but still suffers from a lack of recycling channels, with 40% of these clothes ending up in landfills, or even in oceans and rivers.
4. Improve both skills transmission and formal training. Africa is rich in traditional skills and unique textile techniques, some of which are already protected by UNESCO. The report encourages countries to establish mentoring programs to ensure that these practices are passed down through generations and can continue to inspire young designers. At the same time, UNESCO calls for an increase in available qualifications in key related professions – quality control, business law, marketing – and in training in new technologies, such as 3D printing and e-commerce.

Across the continent, consumers are increasingly seeking ‘Made in Africa’ products as a symbol of pride and a means of asserting their identity. But to meet this growing demand, the entire production chain must be strengthened. This UNESCO report is valuable as it paves the way to achieve this, and it will raise awareness among policymakers.

UNESCO supports creative industries in Africa

The Organization’s commitment to developing a dynamic creative economy in Africa aligns with the principles set forth in UNESCO’s Convention on the Protection and Promotion of the Diversity of Cultural Expressions. Recently, UNESCO has produced a series of reports on the strategic importance of cultural and creative industries in Africa, including a report on African cinema published in 2021, « The Film Industry in Africa: Trends, Challenges, and Growth Opportunities. »

Read the full report : https://unesdoc.unesco.org/ark:/48223/pf0000387230