Report : Africa, a new global fashion leader

By the editorial team

Fashion is truly taking off in Africa, and this report shows that it can be developed even further. To achieve this, designers, professionals, and the entire production and distribution infrastructure need more support from public policymakers. The potential is enormous, not only for the economy but also for youth inclusion, women’s empowerment, and for African culture to resonate on a global scale.

4 challenges to unlock the potential of the fashion sector in Africa

Entitled « The Fashion Sector in Africa: Trends, Challenges, and Growth Opportunities, » UNESCO’s analysis shows that the continent has all the assets to become one of the next global leaders in fashion. It is a major producer of raw materials—37 out of 54 countries produce cotton—an exporter of textiles worth $15.5 billion per year, and an importer of textiles, clothing, and footwear worth $23.1 billion per year.

A growing trend in consumption on the continent is that of Made-in-Africa fashion, particularly among the youth—those under 25 make up 50% of the continent’s total population—and among the emerging middle class, which already accounts for more than 35% of the population, opening new consumer markets. Africa is also experiencing very rapid growth in the digital sector, facilitating intra-African trade and the emergence of young talents.

As evidenced by the 32 Fashion Weeks organized each year, Africa is also teeming with talent in the fields of haute couture, craftsmanship, and ready-to-wear. A 42% increase in the demand for African haute couture is expected over the next 10 years.
In its report, UNESCO highlights four challenges that governments and policymakers must address if they want to unlock the potential of the fashion sector in Africa:

1. Strengthen legal protections for designers and professionals, in terms of intellectual property rights, levels of remuneration, working conditions, and the ability to organize into professional unions and social rights. In this regard, UNESCO is already assisting 23 African countries to improve the status of artists through legislation and regulation.
2. Invest in small and medium-sized enterprises, which currently represent 90% of businesses in the fashion sector in Africa. Spanning the entire continent, they are the guardians of the diversity of cultural practices and expressions. Generators of local jobs, they are also a powerful lever to give opportunities to young people wishing to integrate into the sector.
3. Establish environmental standards. Although the fashion industry remains one of the most polluting, Africa can make greater use of local materials, innovate around sustainable textiles, and raise awareness of sustainable consumption practices. The production of organic cotton fibers in Africa has already increased by 90% between 2019 and 2020, now representing 7.3% of global production. The second-hand clothing market is one of the most dynamic in the world—representing a third of global imports—but still suffers from a lack of recycling channels, with 40% of these clothes ending up in landfills or even in oceans and rivers.
4. Improve both knowledge transmission and formal training. Africa is rich in traditional skills and unique textile techniques, some of which are already protected by UNESCO. The report encourages countries to set up mentoring programs to ensure that these practices are passed down from generation to generation and can continue to inspire young designers. At the same time, UNESCO calls for an increase in the number of qualifications available in key related professions—quality control, business law, marketing—and in training in new technologies, such as 3D printing and e-commerce.

Across the continent, consumers are increasingly seeking ‘Made in Africa’ products, which they see as a symbol of pride and a way to assert their identity. But to meet this growing demand, the entire production chain must be strengthened. This UNESCO report is useful because it outlines the way to achieve this and will raise awareness among public policymakers.

UNESCO supports creative industries in Africa

The Organization’s commitment to developing a dynamic creative economy in Africa aligns with the principles set out in the UNESCO Convention on the Protection and Promotion of the Diversity of Cultural Expressions. Recently, UNESCO has produced a series of reports on the strategic importance of cultural and creative industries in Africa, including a report on African cinema published in 2021, « The Film Industry in Africa: Trends, Challenges, and Growth Opportunities. »

Read the full report : https://unesdoc.unesco.org/ark:/48223/pf0000387230