Exhibition : the fabulous history of Wax at the Musée de l’Homme in Paris
Long considered a symbol of African identity, wax fabric is actually the result of a complex history shaped by colonialism, cultural blending, and reappropriation. The Musée de l'Homme in Paris unveils this fascinating saga through a double exhibition, open until September 7, 2025.
Nearly a century and a half after its creation, wax fabric has made its mark far beyond African borders. This colorful textile with bold patterns, now ubiquitous in fashion and interior design, has conquered the runways of top designers, from Jean-Paul Gaultier to Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior. Yet, while wax is collectively associated with Africa, its history is far more nuanced.
A journey across continents
Contrary to popular belief, wax fabric does not have African origins. It traces back to the 19th century in the Dutch colonial empire, inspired by Indonesian batiks. Produced in the Netherlands using an industrial process that mimicked traditional dyeing techniques, it was initially intended for the Indonesian market. However, it was in West Africa that this textile found its audience and became a cultural staple, with each pattern carrying a distinct cultural, political, or social message.
A tool for cultural expression
Over time, wax fabric evolved into a powerful medium of identity and cultural expression. Linked to African liberation movements and iconic figures of the continent, it now symbolizes pride and self-determination. Yet, production remains largely dominated by foreign companies, particularly the Dutch firm Vlisco and Chinese manufacturers, which have capitalized on this thriving market.
An immersive double exhibition
The Musée de l’Homme in Paris presents a double exhibition retracing this unique journey. The first part explores the history of wax fabric, from its origins to its adoption by African cultures. The second highlights contemporary creativity around this textile, showcasing works by artists and designers who reinterpret it in innovative ways.
A symbol in transformation
While wax fabric has long been perceived as a representation of Africa, it is now at the heart of debates on cultural appropriation and economic independence. Local initiatives are emerging to develop African-based wax production, promoting craftsmanship deeply rooted in the continent.
The Musée de l’Homme’s exhibition invites visitors to look beyond appearances and see wax fabric as a true reflection of the historical, social, and economic dynamics connecting Africa to the rest of the world.
For more information : https://www.museedelhomme.fr/fr/exposition/wax
